Just out of the former rail town of Marree – which lost much of its raison d’etre when the new Ghan line was built – are the remnants of the Lake Harry Homestead, the site of an unlikely date farm experiment a century ago. Soon afterwards, travellers pass the dog fence which separates cattle country to the north and sheep country to the south.  Then there’s honesty box camping at Clayton Creek, complete with toilets and a self-serve natural spa.

Bores were drilled in the Great Artesian Basin at 40km intervals all along the Birdsville Track to make the movement of stock easier. Today, these bores create regular mini oases of greenery and birdlife.  One of the most accessible is the Cannuwaukaninna Bore, which spews out near-boiling water.

Continuing north, travellers come across the Etadunna Homestead and then the normally dry Cooper Creek. In the past couple of years unusual flooding has meant the long-retired ferry here has been temporarily pressed back into service to get travellers across the creek.

From the Mungeranie Roadhouse, which boasts basic facilities and a campground, the track runs through the Sturt Stony Desert. After passing the Mirra Mitta Bore, the junction with tracks heading off into the Simpson Desert, and the vast Clifton Homestead cattle station, travellers reach a fork in the road.

The Birdsville Outside Track is easier going but well-equipped adventurers sometimes prefer  the original Inside Track, which winds through Diamantina River flood plains. It’s 150km or so from here to Birdsville.

Reaching the iconic Outback town is really just the start of the adventure … but boy getting here is quite an introduction!